Updated One-Seam Pants & Question re EF Cashmere Cardigan

Monday Update:  This morning I finished the straight leg version of Louise Cutting's revised One-Seam Pant.     I used the Frixion heat erasible pens to mark dots along the stitching lines for accuracy before inserting the elastic.   When you steam the elastic and the casing the ink comes right out.

I definitely think I need a haircut LOL!  My stylist/photographer told me to use the cane since the rock stairs are right behind me and that worried him.

For this initial pair of pants, based on my measurements I traced the XS, but I sliced it down the grain line and added 1/2" because I thought I needed a bit more ease, based on the ease in my favorite pair.  Lesson learned --   Didn't need to do that.  For this revised pattern, I should cut the XS as is and use the ease Louise recommends for body measurements.    I also think I marked my waist too high and went up to the size small based on that crotch measurement, which I didn't need to do.    


I used a 100% rayon from the Vera Wang Lavender line of fabrics that Fabric.com sold a year or so ago.   Lesson learned:  Make sure your elastic is tight enough for the weight of your fabric.  I could have cut the elastic shorter for these pants.


Here's a photo of the fabric -  it does have some cross-grain stretch.   I did not wash this prior to sewing.    I'll wash a sample and see how it behaves -- if I added too much ease, washing in cool water might adjust it, otherwise I'll just dry-clean it.   Sunday I got as far as inserting the elastic after hemming but I was tired and didn't want to make mistakes sewing the straight lines on the casing so I stopped for the day.    

Vera Lavender salt & pepper rayon suiting

Styling an Eileen Fisher cardigan wrap

I found this gorgeous Eileen Fisher cashmere cardigan on e-Bay last summer.   I paid less than $50 for it and couldn't believe the heavy multiple ply cashmere when I got it.    I sure didn't realize how wide and heavy the collar was -- it's 10 1/4 inches .   The cardigan is 31" long and will be very toasty this fall/winter.   

When I put it on, I wasn't sure if I liked it the way it was.  I've thought about removing the wide collar and replacing it with a narrower complementary tweed or faux fur collar, or nothing at all.   The amazing collar is wide and long enough to make an infinity scarf/cowl and some armwarmers (fingerless gloves) out of it.     


I've styled the collar folded under, belted and then a bit asymmetric folded over the belt.  Here are some photos - click to enlarge for detail.

 I would love an infinity cowl and the armwarmers out of that cashmere, (check out the $350 cashmere ones in Donna Karan's Casual Luxe collection at Neiman Marcus that inspired me) but my inclination is to leave it alone and wear/style it in some interesting ways.    I'm still going to have to make those accessories with some ribbed knit I have in the stash.    I think some expresso brown ribbed armwarmers and an infinity cowl would look great with this.   What do you think?

Standing by myself with no aids!

Unless you've been through the neurological hell that I've been dealing with for the last year,  you have no idea what a big deal this is.   It's such a big deal that I had DH take some photos since today is a nice day and all the clouds are gone.   I even slipped these ballet flat shoes on my feet without using my hands!    That means the nerves and muscles in my feet are improving.   When going out, I still use a cane to keep from tripping and hurting myself,  but this is progress!

 Proudly standing by myself!
(click on photos to enlarge)

The temps are low 70's here so I put on these tencel Loes Hinse European pants and a silk jersey tank made from her Tank Dress and Tops pattern and a light sweater by Vera Wang for Kohl's that I bought last summer.    Vera is so creative, and I enjoy many of her Kohl's pieces that have the design moxie of her high end lines at affordable prices.   This is is a printed cotton/rayon knit with a couple of cotton batiste ruffles left raw around the neck, a sweater that doubles as an accessory.     

Getting Stronger and Getting it Together

Hi Everybody!    Sorry for not keeping the blog up to date.     I do have some good news.    I had a checkup at Johns Hopkins Medical Center last Tuesday - approximately a month after getting the catheter put in and beginning the plasmapheresis 3 X a week, and the doctor pronounced my improvement since as, "Truly Remarkable!"    I can now walk without wobbling, stand without holding onto something for as long as I want to, do standing knee bends, and carry a heavy object from one room to another.    I have the strength back in my fingers.    In July I had trouble squeezing a tube of toothpaste or a finger nail clippers. 


I'm working with a great physical therapist in Asheville who is trained to help people like me with neurological issues.  DH is instructed to get my Pilates machine out of the garage and put it back together.  I'm down to plasmapheresis twice a week.   I am also on an immune suppressant drug that people who have organ transplants take so I will  continue on that once I stop the plasmapheresis.    The key is to keep my body from attacking the nerves and nerve coverings so they can heal and regenerate.


I've signed up for Louise Cutting and Linda Lee's October sewing workshop in Winter Park with my doctor's blessing.     I just have to avoid sick people and kids this fall because my immune system is suppressed.  

Armani Blend - top is the right side of fabric

While in Baltimore last Tuesday I bought some fabric at Michael's Fabrics.   Here is the Armani blend I bought for an Of The Moment jacket and a shell.  I cut a swatch from the uneven end and soaked it in Eucalan when I washed a silk jersey top.   I did not agitate and let it dry naturally.  You can see shrinkage in the size of the grid design that confirms dry clean only for this fabric.


I'm really looking forward to doing more things and getting closer to "normal".    I've got the new One-Seam pant pattern pressed and ready to trace and am looking forward to Louise Cutting's new pattern, A Cute Angle,  that  Holly posted photos of on her Flickr photo set  .   Here's the illustration.

I have so many ideas for fall that I want to implement, but need to pace myself.    I get e-mails from Kate Spade New York.   I recommend looking at their apparel for the many interesting details that you can add to many patterns or do, like their Trompe L'Oeil Valerie Jacket.    I can't link the photos here because of the zoom feature.   Make a white or off-white By Popular Demand jacket - no pockets, no buttons (use snaps) and get one of those Pebeo Setaskrib Fabric Markers and draw away, heat set and wear the most interesting jacket that nobody else has!  Here's a video by Blick Art on Youtube showing how to use the fabric markers.  Most companies that sell fabric painting dyes sell the markers.


Of course Kate Spade styling and accesories are always exceptional.   I thought the collar on their new Cherie Coat was really special.   Zoom in to see the detail.   It's basically a rectangle that they pleated at the front with a fold-over tab.    It would be easy to add that collar to Louise's Pure and Simple Coat or any round neck coat, jacket or shirt.