Sunday, September 11, 2011

Updated One-Seam Pants & Question re EF Cashmere Cardigan

Monday Update:  This morning I finished the straight leg version of Louise Cutting's revised One-Seam Pant.     I used the Frixion heat erasible pens to mark dots along the stitching lines for accuracy before inserting the elastic.   When you steam the elastic and the casing the ink comes right out.
I definitely think I need a haircut LOL!  My stylist/photographer told me to use the cane since the rock stairs are right behind me and that worried him.

For this initial pair of pants, based on my measurements I traced the XS, but I sliced it down the grain line and added 1/2" because I thought I needed a bit more ease, based on the ease in my favorite pair.  Lesson learned --   Didn't need to do that.  For this revised pattern, I should cut the XS as is and use the ease Louise recommends for body measurements.    I also think I marked my waist too high and went up to the size small based on that crotch measurement, which I didn't need to do.    

I used a 100% rayon from the Vera Wang Lavender line of fabrics that sold a year or so ago.   Lesson learned:  Make sure your elastic is tight enough for the weight of your fabric.  I could have cut the elastic shorter for these pants.

Here's a photo of the fabric -  it does have some cross-grain stretch.   I did not wash this prior to sewing.    I'll wash a sample and see how it behaves -- if I added too much ease, washing in cool water might adjust it, otherwise I'll just dry-clean it.   Sunday I got as far as inserting the elastic after hemming but I was tired and didn't want to make mistakes sewing the straight lines on the casing so I stopped for the day.    
Vera Lavender salt & pepper rayon suiting

Styling an Eileen Fisher cardigan wrap

I found this gorgeous Eileen Fisher cashmere cardigan on e-Bay last summer.   I paid less than $50 for it and couldn't believe the heavy multiple ply cashmere when I got it.    I sure didn't realize how wide and heavy the collar was -- it's 10 1/4 inches .   The cardigan is 31" long and will be very toasty this fall/winter.   

When I put it on, I wasn't sure if I liked it the way it was.  I've thought about removing the wide collar and replacing it with a narrower complementary tweed or faux fur collar, or nothing at all.   The amazing collar is wide and long enough to make an infinity scarf/cowl and some armwarmers (fingerless gloves) out of it.     

I've styled the collar folded under, belted and then a bit asymmetric folded over the belt.  Here are some photos - click to enlarge for detail.

 I would love an infinity cowl and the armwarmers out of that cashmere, (check out the $350 cashmere ones in Donna Karan's Casual Luxe collection at Neiman Marcus that inspired me) but my inclination is to leave it alone and wear/style it in some interesting ways.    I'm still going to have to make those accessories with some ribbed knit I have in the stash.    I think some expresso brown ribbed armwarmers and an infinity cowl would look great with this.   What do you think?


  1. That collar certainly is ginormous but what a fabulous garment! I'm eagerly waiting for your report on the new one-seams. I haven't purchased the new pattern but I might depending upon your experience.

  2. I really like the new one seams pattern (but I had played with the old one to love it too). Anxious to see all the new things you create now that you are feeling better. By the way, how does the sizing work on the EFisher clothing. Do you choose a SM in her things?

  3. Linda I find EF's cardigans run large. That's a small and another I got at a local consignment store that sells EF overstock (new) is an XS. I posted a photo of it on Flickr with the new One Seam pant today

  4. Terri, thanks for the sizing info. Both of the cardigans are beautiful. I think I need to watch e-bay for some good deals. Your new OS look wonderful with your styling options!

  5. What delicious speculations you have: what to do with the cashmere! I like the asymmetrical look you created. Maybe someday, if and when you tire of it, you can re-style it. Your slacks look great on you.

  6. so great to see the amazing progress you've made! You are something else, lady! Congratulations!