Friday, September 16, 2011

Arm-warmer prototype and Shapes Three Fold Vest

Today I did some planning, measuring and worked on some layouts.     I worked on a 2X4 tunic lengthened into a dress (view C with the wide cowl neck)  out of this expresso brown ribbed knit.   I also made some arm-warmers after seeing the slouchy Donna Karan ribbed cashmere knit ones.   I think these will look great with that Eileen Fisher cardigan.    This is a soft ribbed knit so I measured the width of my arm, used differential feed to serge the knit into a tube then turned the lower finger portion under, flat-locked, stitched between thumb and fingers.   That's a separate tube of ribbing with clear elastic serged onto the seam.   I may make these a single tube and longer but here is the prototype:
Ribbed knit from Casual Elegance Fabrics
I've sewn the Shapes Three Fold Vest twice - one in a black linen open weave and one in a variegated knit.    There's an Eskandar Cross-Over Wrap Jacket in his fall collection ($1,250 + tax) in the catalog and on the Neiman Marcus website that inspired me of what to make with this tweed (probably Linton)  in gorgeous fall colors that I bought from Tanner in Rutherfordton, NC when they used to sell the left-over fabrics the sample garments were made from.      The fabric they purchase for the clothes was always top drawer and they got the tweeds specially woven by Linton in the UK. 
Click on photos  for original sizes and detail
The soft, drapey fabric Eskandar used for the cross-over jacket is a blend of wool/mohair/angora/nylon/silk, and I'm sure my fabric is a blend as well.  This tweed is so beautiful on both sides that I didn't want to make anything structured or fuse it.  

I draped a width/length of fabric over my shoulders to determine the length of where I want it to fall over my my arms and the length.    When I compared that to the Shapes pattern, it looks like this jacket is the Shapes size 3 finished.  If I add the allowance for the fold over finished edges,   that will be perfect on me as a jacket.     I want to use the substantial weight silk jersey for a simple long sleeve dress with a cowl neck - perhaps the CLD 2x4 tunic top lengthened.     I'll use the gold silk crepe to line and face the back triangle insert.     I think the jacket will be a fun new garment and I'll get lots of wear out of it with all those colors.  

I also experimented to see if I like the selvedges turned to the outside on the fronts of the jacket.   I've done this before with fabric with interesting selvedges where both sides either look the same (like this one) or provide nice contrast.     I haven't decided what to do yet

1 comment:

  1. I like the look of the turned back selvedges. Beautiful fabric - all of it.