Saturday, November 19, 2011

November Coordinates - black and silver gray

So what have I been working on this past week?   A collection of coordinates,  of course.    I'm working on another blouse in the pinstripe gray silk using the Miyake 2332 pattern.   That blouse will layer beautifully under some of the soft jackets I'm planning.     I thought about using the Miyake pattern or even the Sewing Workshop San Diego jacket pattern for a jacket from this wool doublt knit (shown below with the plaid accent band) but that pattern requires a lot  more fabric than I have. 

But I do have enough of it to make an altered version of Vogue 8430. I worked on the prototype for it today.    The wool double knit has very little stretch whereas the knit boucle is pretty stretchy.     The wool plaid boucle is perfect for a TSW San Diego jacket using bands of the wool double knit with the smaller scroll/paisley motif as contrast.    I think the silk pinstripe will be interesting to wear under either jacket, and I have many other tops that will work with these.   I would wear either black or charcoal gray slacks or a skirt with these.      Nothing boring about outfits with these as the talking piece!

Wool double knit with plaid accents

Here's my work in progress prototype of altered Vogue 8430 in a stretchy salt and pepper boucle knit - I know it's got some wool in it, and definitely lycra.    This came from the PA Fabric Outlet when it was in Baltimore.    They used to get some amazing cuts from manufacturers, many from Italy.    I applied strips of my gray and black wool boucle plaid to the neckline and the sleeves, keeping it interesting but simple.     I put the selvedge of the plaid at the neckline so the fringe peaks out from the other side.     

Here are some detail shots of the knit jacket.    I think my prototype looks a lot like the jackets you might find in downtown Asheville art to wear stores for several hundred dollars.
On the bottom left is a photo of the Anthropologie sweater jacket that that served as my inspiraton for these.     I wore it a lot last winter.   I may add the vertical bands to the fronts of my stretch boucle jacket tomorrow.     They provide stability as well as a design element. 

To get the same look as the Anthropologie sweater jacket, I would put a tie inside and into the right side seam, and a large snap that closes that jacket.    Otherwise, worn open, it looks the same as the gray knit boucle.

I was going to post the alterations when I finish the jacket tomorrow, but wanted to respond to Martha's questions: 
  1. I cut a size medium -  this pattern has no hems at any of the edges
  2. I added four inches in length
  3. I removed 1 3/8" from the sleeve bottom
  4. I folded the front pieces on the first view B felting line - that decreased the width of, and straightened the front edge that I place on the selvedge
  5. I used 5/8" seam allowances and pressed them open.   

Here are some details about the construction:
  • All trim and knit edges are left raw in the Anthropologie jacket and this one.   The bottom will roll to the outside just like the expensive Eileen Fisher and Eskandar knits are cut to do.     It will not ravel.    Hey if Lanvin can do it and charge thousands, so can you and I.
  • Sleeves:   it's easier, and neater to put two strips of 1/4" steam a seam down the edges of the trim, line it up with the edge, press it to adhere, then topstitch before you sew up the sleeve seam.    The trim will be caught in the seam -- then press the seam allowanced open and topstitch over to secure the trim nicely.    
  • The neckline trim was done the same way AFTER the shoulder seams (stabilized at the back) were stitched, pressed open and topstitched along the funnel collar per the instructions

BTW I appreciate your comments and am happy to answer questions.   If something I do inspires you, please give me credit.  



  1. Terri, this is fabulous! You go from concept to finished product faster than anyone I know! Beautiful!

  2. Yes, this is wonderful, Terri. I love your ensemble approach.

    As it happens, I am wearing a very casual version of this Vogue pattern right this minute! Yours looks more fitted, and perhaps longer. Is this correct? I love the use of the selvage. I am always trying to think of ways to use lovely selvage.

    Do you think this might work well with a sheer, drapey fabric for the holidays?

  3. What a beautiful combination. You have such an excellent eye for putting the right things together!

  4. Your sewing is indeed inspiring. I will certainly miss seeing your elegant clothes that you sew when your blog becomes private.

  5. What does it mean that your blog will be private? Thx,

    Gail D.

  6. I agree with Janine. Will miss seeing your accomplishments and inspiration when your blog becomes private.

  7. Thanks so much for the details on your modifications to this Vogue pattern. You will definitely inspire more projects in my sewing studio!